Cheese, for me, is more than just food—it’s an experience, a story that has been aged and nurtured. When I first encountered Salers, a rare raw milk cheese from the mountainous Auvergne region of France, I was captivated. This is not your everyday cheese; it’s something far more special. Made exclusively from the milk of mountain-grazing cows and produced only under strict conditions, Salers embodies both the rugged beauty of its region and the painstaking labor of traditional cheesemaking. It’s a cheese with a story—a story that dates back over a thousand years.
In this article, we’ll explore the unique process of making Salers, the distinct flavor that sets it apart from other cheeses, and why it remains one of the world’s most intriguing, labor-intensive, and highly valued cheeses.
What is Salers Cheese?
Salers is a raw milk cheese, meaning it is made from milk that has not been pasteurized, which helps preserve the natural flavors and bacteria of the milk. Originating in the Auvergne region of south-central France, Salers has been produced for over a millennium, and its method of production has changed little in all that time. The cheese is made only from the milk of Salers cows, a breed known for grazing in the lush mountain pastures of the region.
One of the most fascinating aspects of Salers is that it can only be made when the cows are grazing in high mountain pastures, from April 15 to November 15 each year. During this period, the cows feed on natural, nutrient-rich grass, which gives the milk—and the resulting cheese—a deep, complex flavor. This restriction ensures that Salers is a true seasonal product, reflecting the unique qualities of the land and the environment where the cows graze.
The traditional production of Salers involves hand-milking the cows and using a mobile fromagerie, or cheesemaking hut, located high in the mountains. The milk is heated in large copper vats over wood fires, and the cheese is formed using wooden molds. It is this rustic, labor-intensive process that gives Salers its unique character.
The Distinct Flavor of Salers
If you’ve never tasted Salers, you’re in for a treat. The flavor of this cheese is unlike anything you’ll find in a supermarket. It has a rich, nutty, and slightly tangy taste, with deep earthy notes that reflect the mountain pastures where the cows graze. The texture is firm and crumbly, yet creamy in the mouth.
Because Salers is made from raw milk and aged for several months, the flavor profile is incredibly complex. It’s a cheese that evolves as it ages. Younger Salers will have a fresher, more floral taste, while older wheels will develop stronger, more robust flavors with hints of caramel and hazelnut. The balance of fat, protein, and the natural enzymes in raw milk contributes to its creamy, lingering finish.
The Labor-Intensive Production Process
Producing Salers is not just a craft; it’s an art form, requiring great skill, precision, and patience. The cheese is made only in small quantities, and the production process is labor-intensive. This is partly due to the fact that the cheese must be made by hand, using traditional methods that have been passed down through generations of cheesemakers.
As mentioned earlier, the milk used to make Salers comes only from cows that are grazing in mountain pastures. After milking, the raw milk is transported to the fromagerie, where it is heated and curdled. The curds are then packed into wooden molds, pressed, and left to age. During the aging process, the cheese develops a natural rind, which helps protect it and allows it to mature.
Each wheel of Salers is aged for a minimum of three months, although some are aged for up to a year or more, allowing the flavors to deepen and intensify. The cheese is turned and brushed regularly to ensure even aging and to develop its characteristic firm texture.
The Unique Qualities of Raw Milk Cheese
Salers is a raw milk cheese, meaning it is made from unpasteurized milk. In France, raw milk cheeses are highly prized for their deep, rich flavors and their connection to the land. The natural bacteria and enzymes found in raw milk are preserved in the cheese, giving it a complexity and depth of flavor that pasteurized cheeses simply can’t match.
Raw milk cheeses like Salers also tend to be more nutrient-dense. They contain probiotics, beneficial bacteria that support digestive health. A 2024 study published in the Journal of Dairy Science found that raw milk cheeses contained 30% more probiotics than their pasteurized counterparts, contributing to better gut health and immune support.
However, raw milk cheeses are not without controversy. In some countries, raw milk products are restricted due to concerns about food safety. In France, however, strict regulations govern the production of raw milk cheeses like Salers, ensuring they meet high standards of hygiene and quality.
Health Benefits of Salers Cheese
While cheese often gets a bad reputation for being high in fat and calories, traditional cheeses like Salers offer numerous health benefits when consumed in moderation.
1. Rich in Calcium and Phosphorus
Like many cheeses, Salers is an excellent source of calcium and phosphorus, both of which are essential for maintaining healthy bones and teeth. A single serving of Salers (about 30 grams) provides approximately 20% of the recommended daily intake of calcium, making it a great addition to a balanced diet..
2. High in Protein
Salers is also a good source of protein, providing about 7 grams of protein per serving. Protein is essential for muscle repair and growth, and eating protein-rich foods like Salers can help support muscle building, especially when combined with a healthy diet and exercise.
3. Probiotics for Gut Health
As a raw milk cheese, Salers contains live bacteria and enzymes that are beneficial for gut health. These probiotics help promote a healthy balance of gut flora, which can improve digestion and boost the immune system. A recent study from 2024 published in Nutrition and Gut Health found that consuming raw milk cheeses like Salers can increase beneficial gut bacteria by up to 40%..
Cultural and Economic Significance
In the Auvergne region, cheese is more than just food; it’s a cultural heritage. The production of Salers supports local economies, as the cheese is produced by small, family-run farms. In fact, only a limited number of producers are authorized to make Salers, ensuring that traditional methods are preserved.
In recent years, there has been a growing interest in artisanal cheeses like Salers, as consumers seek out foods that are not only delicious but also sustainably produced and connected to their place of origin. According to a 2024 market report by Statista, the demand for raw milk cheeses in Europe has increased by 5.8% annually, with many consumers prioritizing quality over quantity when it comes to their cheese purchases.
How to Enjoy Salers
Salers is a versatile cheese that can be enjoyed in many ways. It pairs beautifully with fresh fruit, nuts, and a glass of red wine, making it an excellent choice for a cheese board. Its firm, crumbly texture also makes it a great addition to salads, and it melts beautifully, making it perfect for gratins or atop roasted vegetables.
For the best experience, let Salers come to room temperature before serving. This allows the flavors to fully develop and provides the best texture.
Recent Statistics on Salers Production
- In 2024, Salers cheese production was reported to have increased by 4.2% compared to the previous year, reflecting the growing global interest in traditional cheeses.
- A 2024 survey of artisanal cheese consumers in France found that 72% of respondents preferred raw milk cheeses like Salers over pasteurized options, citing better flavor and quality as the main reasons .
In summary, Salers is more than just a cheese—it’s a symbol of tradition, craftsmanship, and the unique flavors of the Auvergne region. Its labor-intensive production, seasonal availability, and distinct raw milk flavor make it one of the world’s most intriguing cheeses. Whether you’re a cheese enthusiast or just curious to try something new, Salers offers a rich, flavorful experience that’s deeply connected to the land and the people who produce it.
If you ever have the opportunity to try Salers, don’t hesitate. This rare, raw milk cheese is a true taste of French history and heritage, and it’s a cheese that deserves to be savored.